Heyboer sent me the wrong transformer - I think. what is it??

[mad-axeman]

Hey everyone,

This amp doesn't seem to want to be built, as it's been a struggle just to get to this point for a multitude of reasons. My latest dilemma is that the PT that I ordered from ValveStorm who in turn ordered it from Heyboer does not match anything I can find and I just don't know where to go from here.

Could I please get someone to confirm that this is not useable, and then I guess I can go back to Heyboer and get the right one.

NOTE: the PT is clearly marked 2012-118, but isn't wired like any diagram i can find. I am including what the diagram/instructions show, and some photos of what I actually received.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated,
Stu

[mad-axeman]

Now forum isn't letting me post pictures....

so unless i can figure out why, i guess i'm dead in the water

sorry all

[neikeel]

try links to pics?

[mad-axeman]

I used to use photobucket but that's gone

what else can i use if don't have my own server to host them on?

[mad-axeman]

never tried this before so hopefully it works:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gRxMX ... WG74Yruzan

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1R5_eR ... ivdDq8NTyo

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A2PK8 ... w-Yxi4HDOC

[mad-axeman]

here's what the diagram indicates the wiring should be:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BlLRq ... vQhmuzGl9S

[danman]

What amp are you trying to build? The PT you have has two yellow wires which are for a rube rectifier. Does your build include a tube rectifier or ss diodes? You can use the PT either way...just insulate the yellow wires if you plan to use ss diodes. The two green wires go to the heater filaments and the green/yellow is the centertap for the heaters. This will be grounded to the chassis. The two red wires go to the tube rectifier or your ss diodes and the red/yellow centertap goes to ground. The remaining wires are for your incoming AC power and I would need to know your house voltage before I can say which ones to use.

[mad-axeman]

thank you for the reply!

I am sorry I should have been more clear - I am building the MetroAmp 50 Watt Plexi Kit as purchased from ValveStorm (taking over for Metro).

My research turned up the same as you suggest; my concern is that since i have no schematic that is accurate for this PT, how do i know with absolute certainty what those wires actually are.

Robert from ValveStorm has been VERY helpful, and willing to assist so we're going to wire it as you said and test along the way to be sure.

I'll keep everyone posted at least for anyone coming after me to reference.

Regards,
Stu

[danman]

Those colors are commonly used on the secondary side of a PT. The primary side wiring colors that connects to the AC voltage may differ from PT to PT but you can sort that out with a meter if needed. If you feel comfortable working around live wires, you could wire the PT up temporarily to check the voltages at each wire. Extreme care needs to be taken to isolate each wire and not let them touch anything when performing the test though.

[neikeel]

The PT in the pics looks correct

The primaries (input options) are the brown/black/orange and yellow as per the diagram. One is a common (takes feed from the on/off switch) and depending on where you are one of the other wires (chose according to your wall voltage) is hooked up to neutral (build all my amps with an input and output selector where possible) but it is up to you.

The secondaries (outputs) are:

Red - Red/yellow tracer- Red are HT (the tracer is the centre tap and goes to ground, the reds go to the diode block.

Green - Green/yellow tracer- Green are the heaters (again tracer is centre tap to ground) green wires are twisted and go to pin 2 and pin 7 of V5 (EL34 output tube socket) and the other heaters are fed off this along the chain in parallel.

I don't see any issues, assuming the pic you posted is the PT you have in your amp.

[mad-axeman]

Guys,

You are all making me feel a lot more comfortable! Thank you!

This is only the 3rd amp I've built, and I've never had a transformer that was wired differently than the spec sheet. While I still don't know why Heyboer doesn't provide a spec sheet that accurately represents the product, at least I can move on unobstructed

Best,
Stu

P.S. the photo is of my actual amp

[mad-axeman]

Update:

was able to wire up the power section enough to take some readings. Some of the voltages were higher than expected so I diverted to Heyboer for assistance.

We never really figured out why my PT looked the way it does, but they are going to send me a replacement because they do have the exact one I need in stock

Thanks everyone for the help!
Stu

[neikeel]

The voltages will always be higher off load (10-20% typically)

[mad-axeman]

and that was exactly what Heyboer said, but they still wanted to send me the right one - and i didn't argue.

so, when I was troubleshooting with ValveStorm, he gave me the option of hooking up power to code (placement of white/black power wires), or the way the Metro/Marshall did it.

I originally went with code, but am wondering if anyone could chime in on pros/cons before I begin once again

Thanks all,
Stu

[neikeel]

Ideally I would use a DPST switch. I would take live to the mains fuse and then to the switch then line to common of PT. I would bring neutral line to other pole of switch and then to the chosen PT tap (I guess 120v in your case).
That is the correct modern way of wiring the PT primary if not using a voltage selector switch.