TAD Super Lead 100w - My first build

[danman]

I also tried many different mods to my 1987 build but in the end I ripped them all out and went back with the stock circuit specs. It really is hard trying to improve on the original sometimes!

[Prowler]

Danman was right like allways. I should not have started doing the Slash mod because there is just too much work and the amp sounded pretty good allready. Well, I guess I have to finish what I started and see how it turns out.

I also started doing the Larry grounding by installing the groundin lugs.

Here are the latest pics:

http://1drv.ms/101PRYn

So far I have found these Larry grounding layouts. Which of these should I use?

https://2n9hcq.by3301.livefilestore.com ... jpg?psid=1

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=330949D4 ... A3!642&v=3

https://2n9hcq.by3301.livefilestore.com ... JPG?psid=1

Or should I wire the amp just like in this Slash mod layout?

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=330949D4 ... A3!641&v=3

-Andy

[danman]

I like to use the "Larry Grounding" method on all my builds now and each one has been very quiet with this method. I believe I used the layout in your third link. Grounding can get very confusing sometimes if you start reading everything out there on the web. Each method has its pros and cons so it's best to pick one and stick to it. If you don't like the results you can make small changes, one at a time, until your happy.

[Prowler]

Where do I Larry ground the 470k mix resistor?

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=330949D4 ... A3!641&v=3

https://2n9hcq.by3301.livefilestore.com ... JPG?psid=1

Do I ground pre-amp gain and master volume pots to the same lug?

[danman]

Which amp are you trying to ground? Your original 1959 or the AFD circuit? With Larry's method you are grounding each component within the stage that it is used in the amp. This keeps ground currents localized within their individualized stages and not interfering with other stages.

[Prowler]

Which amp are you trying to ground? Your original 1959 or the AFD circuit? With Larry's method you are grounding each component within the stage that it is used in the amp. This keeps ground currents localized within their individualized stages and not interfering with other stages.

I am trying to ground the AFD circuit:

http://1drv.ms/1yMYe8l

Today' I continued modding the amp to AFD specs. Here are the pics:

http://1drv.ms/11K1UKn

I took off the grounding lugs that I installed yesterday because I am going to get better ones and locking nuts.

For the Larry grounding I had to make two extensions to the green wire that previously connected to the F4 grounding lug.

http://1drv.ms/1rkel4H

I guess the extended wire now needs to be connected to the Larry ground point 1? (the extended wire is the orange wire running below the pots in this picture)

http://1drv.ms/1rkemWj

Larry ground:

https://2n9hcq.by3301.livefilestore.com ... JPG?psid=1

Please tell me if I am doing it wrong.

[danman]

I really can't tell what is going on because the wire colors are different from the standard Marshall scheme. I like to stick with 18 gauge black wire for all grounds because it makes it easier to tell them apart.

As for grounding lugs, be sure to use a star washer under your solder lug so that you get a good bite into the chassis when you tighten the nut. In some areas you may need to use two or three lugs on one bolt depending on how many grounds you need to connect in one spot. I wish I could be of more help but it is difficult to see everything from the pics. If you are using the AFD layout then follow the grounding scheme in the layout and you should be fine.

[Prowler]

I really can't tell what is going on because the wire colors are different from the standard Marshall scheme. I like to stick with 18 gauge black wire for all grounds because it makes it easier to tell them apart.

As for grounding lugs, be sure to use a star washer under your solder lug so that you get a good bite into the chassis when you tighten the nut. In some areas you may need to use two or three lugs on one bolt depending on how many grounds you need to connect in one spot. I wish I could be of more help but it is difficult to see everything from the pics. If you are using the AFD layout then follow the grounding scheme in the layout and you should be fine.

I got now different coloured wires but I was too lazy to unsolder the old yellow wires from the turrets. It is pretty confusing when all the wires are yellow.

I will get those star washers and follow the AFD grounding scheme. Thanks Danman!

Today's modding pictures:

http://1drv.ms/1tCW7CG

[Prowler]

Today I modded my Super Lead to the Slash specs and I am very pleased how the amp sounds now. No more flubby bass!

Still the amp needs some minor cap mod for the exact Slash tone. The amp is suprisingly versatile, I can also get Dokken, Ac/Dc, Van Halen, Megadeth, Iron Maiden, Dio and Stratovarius tones out of it and many more.

Here is the layout for the Slash Mod:

https://omtyzg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2 ... png?psid=1

Tomorrow I will post the new voltage chart and the pics.

[danman]

Happy to hear that you have found a sound that you like! I may try these AFD specs in a 50watter that I have laying around.

[Prowler]

I finally got some GNR clips done of my #34 mod:

http://1drv.ms/1ER47Ss

I listened them when I got home and they're terrible!
No equalization was done, only panning and mixing with the original tracks in the end.

After I did those clips I found a better place for the sm57 but didn't have the time to record them again. The amp sounds pretty good but It is hard to capture the sound with a sm57.

[Prowler]

Here is a new clip of my #34:

http://1drv.ms/1tcSdk4

I used Kjaerhus Classic Reverb Plugin.

[danman]

Sounds very good prowler! Sounds like you have got things dialed in now. I have all the parts together to try the AFD spec in my 2204 clone but just haven't made time to do it yet.

[Prowler]

The carpenter had finally the head cabinet done with dimensions I gave him.

There is still some work to be done before I dye it with dark-walnut color.

The head cabinet was pretty cheap because the carpenter built it for free. The 18mm birch plywood cost only 45 euros (about 51 US Dollars).
If I am not satisfied how it is going to look like after I paint it, I might try tolexing it later.

http://1drv.ms/1zKzVrT

[Prowler]

Today I rounded corners with sandpaper:

Before:

http://1drv.ms/1A0gUli

After:

http://1drv.ms/1zhPfH4

http://1drv.ms/1zhPbY7