TAD Super Lead 100w project
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Today I went to the workshop and took some more pictures as I promised:
http://1drv.ms/1l75SOZ
How does it look? See anything suspicious?
-Andy
http://1drv.ms/1l75SOZ
How does it look? See anything suspicious?
-Andy
- neikeel
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Looks very colourful!
I personally can't cope with the sight of all that green and yellow push back cloth. I am sure you will make it work but trouble shooting will be a complete nightmare!
That is why I stick to stock colours and layout so any tech can look at it later and follow a schem/colour code.
I personally can't cope with the sight of all that green and yellow push back cloth. I am sure you will make it work but trouble shooting will be a complete nightmare!
That is why I stick to stock colours and layout so any tech can look at it later and follow a schem/colour code.
Neil
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Yeah, it looks like a salad and troubleshooting might be difficult. I'm thinking of asking Bluetone Amp's technicians to do the final checks. Bluetone is a Finnish company that builds awesome amps. Their website has some sound clips of their amps too.neikeel wrote:Looks very colourful!
I personally can't cope with the sight of all that green and yellow push back cloth. I am sure you will make it work but trouble shooting will be a complete nightmare!
That is why I stick to stock colours and layout so any tech can look at it later and follow a schem/colour code.
http://www.bluetone.fi/en/guitar-amps/
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
More pics!
http://1drv.ms/TVioeq
This time I finished the pre-amp tube sockets and soldered some components. One of the input jacks went missing so I left them alone for now.
-Andy
http://1drv.ms/TVioeq
This time I finished the pre-amp tube sockets and soldered some components. One of the input jacks went missing so I left them alone for now.
-Andy
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Today I studied the Dukeamp's AFD specs layout and it seems that I don't need to add any more turrets for that mod. I just need to remove all of those 68k input jack resistors and use those turrets, am I right?
Duke's layout: http://1drv.ms/1koONBc
TAD's layout: http://1drv.ms/1tIIQbp
I'm a little confused because there are two wires marked with letter C that connect to the cap underneath the board on Duke's layout. Should I connect both wires marked with C to the cap's red lug?
What is that black transparent square next to the choke's turret on Duke's layout?
Hopefully this weekend I get to work on the amp again. It is allmost ready for testing.
-Andy
Duke's layout: http://1drv.ms/1koONBc
TAD's layout: http://1drv.ms/1tIIQbp
I'm a little confused because there are two wires marked with letter C that connect to the cap underneath the board on Duke's layout. Should I connect both wires marked with C to the cap's red lug?
What is that black transparent square next to the choke's turret on Duke's layout?
Hopefully this weekend I get to work on the amp again. It is allmost ready for testing.
-Andy
- Strat78
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
That's odd, it does look like that's what the diagram says about the "C" connections. The transparent box is the bias trip pot.Prowler wrote:Today I studied the Dukeamp's AFD specs layout and it seems that I don't need to add any more turrets for that mod. I just need to remove all of those 68k input jack resistors and use those turrets, am I right?
Duke's layout: http://1drv.ms/1koONBc
TAD's layout: http://1drv.ms/1tIIQbp
I'm a little confused because there are two wires marked with letter C that connect to the cap underneath the board on Duke's layout. Should I connect both wires marked with C to the cap's red lug?
What is that black transparent square next to the choke's turret on Duke's layout?
Hopefully this weekend I get to work on the amp again. It is allmost ready for testing.
-Andy
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- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:57 pm
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: Finland
Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Thanks Strat78! Hopefully this weekend I get the amp done. Which reminds me I have to order a new input jack and all the components for the mod right now.
-Andy
-Andy
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:57 pm
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: Finland
Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Now the final resistor is in it's place:
http://1drv.ms/1oyJ1gE
Today I checked if all the resistors were okay. One 47k resistor measured 4.7k while in the circuit. I checked the colour code and took it off from the circuit and it was 47k when I measured it again.
I also took a pic of the extra components that came with the kit. Is there any use for those?
http://1drv.ms/1oyJ1gE
Today I checked if all the resistors were okay. One 47k resistor measured 4.7k while in the circuit. I checked the colour code and took it off from the circuit and it was 47k when I measured it again.
I also took a pic of the extra components that came with the kit. Is there any use for those?
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
You are checking for microfarad µF or uF symbolized = µ
That is nanofarad nF not uF
That is nanofarad nF not uF
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Re: TAD Super Lead 100w project
Today I fired up the amplifier with the pre amp tubes installed.
These are the measuring results. Obviously there is something wrong:
http://1drv.ms/1traZ4o
Am I supposed to measure all of these by using multimeter's DC setting?
I also took some pictures:
http://1drv.ms/VM2cgf
I noticed that F4 cap doesn't drain if I connect a bleeder wire between pin 1 of V1 and the chassis.
I also took a video of it. Should I flip the Stand-by switch to ON position to drain the F4 cap?
Video: http://1drv.ms/1p2YhTi
How do I drain the F1 cap underneath the turretboard?
My multimeter shows negative results. Why is that?
I noticed when I turned off the amp that there was a mild scent of chlorine or something in the air.
The amp didn't make any hum at all.
I had trouble installing the pre-amp tubes to the ceramic sockets. They feel kind of loose in their sockets...
Any help would be appreciated!
-Andy
These are the measuring results. Obviously there is something wrong:
http://1drv.ms/1traZ4o
Am I supposed to measure all of these by using multimeter's DC setting?
I also took some pictures:
http://1drv.ms/VM2cgf
I noticed that F4 cap doesn't drain if I connect a bleeder wire between pin 1 of V1 and the chassis.
I also took a video of it. Should I flip the Stand-by switch to ON position to drain the F4 cap?
Video: http://1drv.ms/1p2YhTi
How do I drain the F1 cap underneath the turretboard?
My multimeter shows negative results. Why is that?
I noticed when I turned off the amp that there was a mild scent of chlorine or something in the air.
The amp didn't make any hum at all.
I had trouble installing the pre-amp tubes to the ceramic sockets. They feel kind of loose in their sockets...
Any help would be appreciated!
-Andy