I was just looking at the MM site and noticed they now have a 100 watt size OT for a 50 watt. What are the differences or pro's and con's of doing this. I believe that Mojave amps use a 100 watt OT in their 50 watt model. Opinions please?
Also, I was reading a few posts concerning Mercury's and just wanted to thrown my two cents in. I installed a 050JM-SL in my 1987S that I used to have and it was an excellent choice. It had great cleans and a very smooth break up with plenty of dynamics. On a side note, the self-leads model was recommended by Patrick but in a chat with Sergio a few months later he told me that the SL model would increase the mids. I still liked it, but it just goes to show you how one players dream tone is another ones nightmare.
Thanks all,
Ivabiggun
100 wastt OT in a 50 watt
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100 wastt OT in a 50 watt
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Re: 100 wastt OT in a 50 watt
Hi,
It seems that Mojave amps do that. Search the thread of mojave amps here; it seems the amp pumps out a big sound, similar to the 100 watts version.
The problem in mojave is you loose the 4 ohm output, if i remember right..
It seems that Mojave amps do that. Search the thread of mojave amps here; it seems the amp pumps out a big sound, similar to the 100 watts version.
The problem in mojave is you loose the 4 ohm output, if i remember right..
the most of the sound comes ...raising the master! 

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Re: 100 wastt OT in a 50 watt
Basically you get a transformer with a much bigger core, which makes it harder to saturate. This can be a good thing depending on what you're going for.
As far as impedances go, the 4/8/16 ohm taps become 8/16/32 ohm taps so yes you do lose the 4 ohm output.
As far as impedances go, the 4/8/16 ohm taps become 8/16/32 ohm taps so yes you do lose the 4 ohm output.
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Re: 100 wastt OT in a 50 watt
Thank you for the replies. I am going for a cleaner amp with more headroom. A used to have a 1987S metal panel RI but I had to sell it because of financial issues.
It had a Mercury OJ50M-SL and W---r 50/50 cap cans in it. I bought those a few years ago before the price doubled. Those resistors are 1%/1watt/750V metal film from PRP. I know some say that mf resistors don't sound warm and etc., but these sounded great to my ears. I previously had cf in there and I think the metal's sounded better. Perhaps better for metal.
It had a split cathode with a .68 bypass on the second gain stage, all Sozo caps and a pair of NOS Tesla EL34's and Tung-Sol ri 12AX7's. It had the best tone and would stay clean up till about half way on the volumes. I also jumpered the inputs internally with shielded wire courtesy of George. I use to play 50's and 60's pop and r&b with that thing. Oh well, you can't eat an amplifier.
I just remembered that this is a photo of when it was a super bass. I changed it back to a lead, removed the 330uf cap from the 2nd gain stage and added a .68. When I installed the self-leads OT I didn't know that you had to remove the varnish from the wires. No matter how hot I set the iron it wouldn't take solder until I found out you had to use nail polish remover on the wires. DOH!!
Ivabiggun



I just remembered that this is a photo of when it was a super bass. I changed it back to a lead, removed the 330uf cap from the 2nd gain stage and added a .68. When I installed the self-leads OT I didn't know that you had to remove the varnish from the wires. No matter how hot I set the iron it wouldn't take solder until I found out you had to use nail polish remover on the wires. DOH!!

Ivabiggun
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