split vs. non-split turrets

[Jason77]

What do you prefer and why?

I'm getting parts together and doing some research for my first build. I've noticed the metro boards have the larger round turrets while the boards from kurtsequipment.com (which seem well regarded here) are split. It would seem to me that the larger, non-split turrets would be easier to work with, but the split style seem to be very popular. Is this just because they're period correct or is there an actual benefit to that style?

[OnTheFritz]

What do you prefer and why?

I'm getting parts together and doing some research for my first build. I've noticed the metro boards have the larger round turrets while the boards from kurtsequipment.com (which seem well regarded here) are split. It would seem to me that the larger, non-split turrets would be easier to work with, but the split style seem to be very popular. Is this just because they're period correct or is there an actual benefit to that style?

Very interesting question, and I'm torn. The old school split turrets look fantastic and are awesome *if* you have all your components to spec and dialed in before hand with an amp that is purpose built. If you want to tweak, personally I prefer the flat turrets or the Metro turrets that are much easier to de-solder, and it lends itself to altering components for a twat like me so much easier.

[Haze13]

Hi.
I think that in some places it's mutch easier to use big turrets with big holes in it. Plates on phase inverter with 22nf caps, 100k and 82k resistors with 47pf bypass cap, and 2 x 1M ohm with 470k and 10k resistors before phase inverter for example. Don't think that some one will hear the difference between turrets...
In my build I used turrets from tube depot, model - 1540-4. They are small cheap and can do the job.

[neikeel]

I prefer the split turrets.

I feed the wires underneath and hook them over to stop them sliding out, then trim them back so that you cannot see the ends, then lay the components across in the groove - not bend and feed the end wire down.

If you are not going for originality and like them I see nothing wrong with the chunky non-splits either.

[demonufo]

Hi.
I think that in some places it's mutch easier to use big turrets with big holes in it.

This. I couldn't agree more. Especially on the occasion that I do something silly like buy Riken ohm resistors with really thick leads.
And given that I also wire my leads in the same way that Neil does, I needed all the room I could get in that particular build. I just find non-split turrets easier to work with. Did one build with splits and was never happy, but then I can be rather OCD about some strange things...

[Jason77]

but then I can be rather OCD about some strange things...

You and me both!

Thanks, guys. I agree, the big turrets seem to make more sense in that they would be much easier to work with. Is there anyone that makes the muli-hole boards like kurt's but with the round turrets? I'm not concerned about it being vintage but I do like that the multi-hole board offers more options, like running the wires up through the hole and around the side of the turret. I know I could stake it myself but, since this is my first build and probably the only one I'd do for a while, I'd rather just buy one that's already staked and done correctly.

This is for a '69 plexi, btw.

[Haze13]

If you are buying a kit, so it's better to use what kit is offers, because those parts are, let's say matched. Place of the holes on the chassis, power transformer type... The turret board may look a little bit different, because some parst you can solder directly to the tube socket or some where else, and no need to use turrets and space on turret board. 68k input resistor you can solder that way with a sielded wire, and no need for turrets on you turret board. I had a noise problem in my JCM 800 build, and the problem was in that 68k resistor was on the board, but when I soldered it "directly" the noise was gone...
5.6k screen resistors before power tubes can be soldered allmost the same way. One lead of resistor goes to the turret and other lead goes to the socket. There are other options too...
What I'm trying to say that you can build the same amp in many ways and one turret board can be shorter that other, and if you are whant to buy all the parts from different places and not like a "Kit", it can be a problem to put them all together. In that case the best way is to do your own turret board. You can buy a drilled FR4 board, and to set the turrets as you want.
No need to make a layout, you can modefy an existing one. Just make shure that the diameter of the turrets is matching your drilled board.
Hope it helps.

[demonufo]

Brian H (Kurtsequipment/reproboards) does three different types of turrets IIRC. My boards I've had from him were pretty chunky turrets, but then I did specifically request whatever had the largest inner diameter.