Not sure I should be telling you how to mod this if you are unsure what plate resistors are

Anyway, look at the board, first on your left are the cathode cap and resistor for V1 (shared on a JTM45)
Next turret is the V1a coupling cap and the V shape of two 100k resistors, these are V1 plate resistors the first goes to V1a (the first triode of V1) which is pin 1 of V1. The other 100k is plate resistor of V1b (to pin 6 of the socket).
If you add another plate resistor in series with one of these you will lower the plate voltage which will decrease the output of the stage, lower the headroom but also increase the gain (all things being equal given the Ck/Rk etc).
To achieve this you will need another turret near the one that hooks up to the coupling cap, then move the resistor to this and mount another 100k resistor to another turret. Mount the resistors in series with one end to the cap, a central tie point and the other to the blue plate wire to the tube. So now you have a 200k plate resistor in two parts. You need to decide if you are going to do this for V1a or V1b (only the channel you select will be affected. Now to make it switchable you will need a simple toggle wired with one wire to the mid tie point and the other to the other end of one of the resistors (I don't think it matters which) so that when you throw the switch it shorts out one of the resistors (ONLY ONE) such that you effectively bypass one of the resistors to make 100k again.
Open the switch and you go back to 200k. It does give more gain. On one of my hotrods I used 120k plate resistors on the extra gain stage board, only you can decide if you like it.
Of course all your wiring and grounds need to be perfect and the switch capable of handling 300v of dc
