JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

cappacappatappa · Post by **cappacappatappa** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 10:54 pm

I'm building an amp. I bought a PCB for a 2203 but what are the differences between a 1959slp and a jcm 800? I know the jcm 800 has a master volume knob which gives the jcm 800 alot more gain on a lower volume settings. But apart from that, what's the difference?

I'm looking to add a crunch mod and I know you can do this with both amps but I want it on the 1959slp so I can replicate the tone of green day. Are current plans for 100W superlead plexi clones and jcm clones the same circuit design as the originals?

Also any hints and tips to keep this build as original as I can would help. I'm going with a marshall 100W superlead sozo std mustard cap kit if I build the 1959.

I'm going with an original genuine marshall 100 watt output transformer that i'm having imported from the U.S.

I want to add a crunch mod to it but i'm working on that with LA sound.

The cans, any ideas?

The solder i'm going with is 96 parts tin 4 parts silver, i'm not going with lead(though it is easier)because I like the idea of silver being in it lol also i'm not using rosin flux because I heard it can damage the pcb. The wire i've picked is this http://modulusamplification.com/TEFLON- ... 41128.aspx is this good enough? I could get some silver coated teflon wire or this http://modulusamplification.com/CABLE-W ... 43438.aspx

Thanks guys.

Mat.

demonufo · Post by **demonufo** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 5:32 am

Silver plated wire just increases the chances of corrosion,

and most silver loaded solders are a no-no. Most of them are very poor quality, and all of them require and adjustment of technique and aren't so easy to work with as a good quality standard solder.

In all honesty, you're better off working with Kester. 63/37 is probably easiest to work with.

As for the 1959 vs 2203, well the 2203 feeds one half of v1 into the other (cascades the gain stages) whereas the 1959 doesn't.

Check the schems. Same power stage, but the preamps are a bit different. Not vastly though, just mostly in the way it's wired up and a couple of values.

Personally I wouldn't waste that original OT on a clone either. I'd just go with something from Marstran or M E R R E N audio and sell that on for big bucks.

cappacappatappa · Post by **cappacappatappa** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:12 am

The solder I got was from radio shack, i'll be playing with it before I do anything serious plus I have a 150w soldering gun. The wire, will teflon 600v be enough? or should I go with the solid 1000v PVC wire?

So it's pretty pointless making both amps. The reason i'm going with an original transformer is because i'm keeping it for my self. I'm keeping with the original parts as much as I can.

Thanks man.

demonufo · Post by **demonufo** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:33 am

Throw that soldering gun away and get a proper iron. They are only useful for quick fix stuff. Any good quality small hand held iron between 15 and 50W should be fine (I use an Antex 50W temp adjustable myself).

1000V wire is overkill.

And really, I would ditch the solder for definite. Silver loaded solder mostly is a load of crap, even some of the expensive stuff I have tried in the past. The 7% Silver loaded stuff I had which cost a small fortune was complete turd compared to some of the 3 and 4% stuff I tried. I also tried a very expensive German brand (can't recall which offhand) which was 4% silver loaded, and it still didn't work as nicely as a decent leaded 60/40 or 63/37 eutectic, and left a LOT of residue.

Mostly it's just aimed at extracting money from people who part with their money easily.

Cheech · Post by **Cheech** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:55 am

Its meant to be environmentally friendly solder. However it does not have the wetting properties of normal leaded solder. You need to use a higher temperature iron to melt it. There are issues with it I know but I have never used it. I have heard of tin whiskers. This solder would not be original. Normal 600v wire would work fine. +1 sell the original transformer. Flux is needed to clean the solder joint and to aid in flowing the solder properly. This is needed otherwise your solder joints will look like crap and may form cold joints. Just get some regular no clean flux core solder.

big_teee · Post by **big_teee** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 12:06 pm

I Agree with demonufo, on Everything.
Get a good soldering Iron, You can do a lot with a 35 Watt Iron.
I like the Pre Tinned Top Coat I get from Mojo.
It works and solders easy.
Solder I still like the old Standard, the 60/40 solder.
The Kester 63/37 would be great too.
I use the rosin core solder.
You can clean the board with alcohol when your done.
The 2203 Preamp uses a Cascaded Preamp Input.
I think the 59 is probably a 4 input jack arrangement, not sure about that.
I do things on the cheap, I use the Classic Tone Iron here in the states.
It may cost too much to get it shipped to the UK.
Good Luck,
T

Pressed_Rat · Post by **Pressed_Rat** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:37 am

I've built a clone JMP50 and a clone JCM800 - the 50 watter. I added a MV to the JMP clone. They are different amps for sure - more gain avail on the JCM800. I would think a 1959 SLP with a RR one wire mod would get you more gain - in the JCM800 ballpark.

If you want to compare layouts, this guy's got em: http://home.comcast.net/~mamp17/index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Look under "Mods" for the "RR one wire" mod link, and compare it with the 2203 and the 1959.

Hope this helps.

cappacappatappa · Post by **cappacappatappa** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:13 am

Alright thanks guys, to start with i've got some rosin core lead solder. I picked up a 60w iron. I'm buying the teflon wire when the store opens after new years and to top it off I bought a jcm 900 4100 for the hell of it lol 1991-2 model lol The transformer, i'll pick one up from here. Can get one about £130 and thanks for the link to that mod, I've been using the old link leading me to some apple sign in page lol

Jingletone · Post by **Jingletone** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:19 pm

Martin Gloub is your man for the green day "dookie" mod. Or the SE Lead mod. If you have any questions on the GD tones let me know. I have first hand knowledge of all the studio tones and can help if your interested. Note billies main sound is the combination of two marshalls, se lead and dookie . so although you can get in the ball park with either mod its only half of the sound.

-bill

karl1221 · Post by **karl1221** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:36 am

How can I contact you jingletone? I have a question about billie joes amp i'd like to ask you

Jingletone · Post by **Jingletone** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:36 am

karl1221 wrote:How can I contact you jingletone? I have a question about billie joes amp i'd like to ask you

Private message me or just ssk here.

doeg4 · Post by **doeg4** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:22 pm

Jingletone wrote:
karl1221 wrote:How can I contact you jingletone? I have a question about billie joes amp i'd like to ask you
Private message me or just ssk here.

you know anything about billie's 39/smooth rig and gear? would appreciate help. Thanks!

Metropoulos Forum

JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.

Re: JCM 800 build or 1959slp. Both 100W.