Metropoulos Forum

Hi guys am currently trying to do my own DIY to learn about tube amplifier ... ill be thinking of getting a Ceriatone JCM 800 2204... would it be a nice amplifier to learn about further modifications like adding gain, Tube rectification, tube swap from EL34-6l6-KT88...

hope to discuss more about building tube amp and am very open to modification on the tone as well... IE more saturation, better bass response, sweeter mids section and etc... thanks hope to learn more from you guys !

neikeel wrote:

Hi happen to see your reply ... but just to ask if anybody has gotten a Ceriatone 2204 kit? and how close is it to the original marshall JCM 2204 as in tone and features?

The Ceriatone kits are certainly good value for money. They are kits and as such differ from the originals in a lot of details, mainly appearance.

The components are decent quality, and if built properly have no specific flaws.
If you want them to look like an original you would probably need to go the Valvestorm, Brian H and Marstran route and use George's 50w instructions with minor mods.

They are moddable to hotter specs like their Chupacabra version if you want too.

The one thing I will say about the Ceriatone is that the 100pF capacitor across v1 is complete overkill if following the instructions, since the inputs already use shielded cable. To use both will take a bit of top end sparkle.

Keep the shielding, lose the cap on the v1 socket.

neikeel wrote:The Ceriatone kits are certainly good value for money. They are kits and as such differ from the originals in a lot of details, mainly appearance.

The components are decent quality, and if built properly have no specific flaws.
If you want them to look like an original you would probably need to go the Valvestorm, Brian H and Marstran route and use George's 50w instructions with minor mods.

They are moddable to hotter specs like their Chupacabra version if you want too.

Thanks again for your kind information.. i have checked Valvestorm and Triode stores which they offers too JCM 2204 kit... idea how could i do with the minor mods using Georges 50watt instructions? i do have a 100 watt 2203 metro instructions... but if anyone could share me the instructions on a 50watt JCM 800 2204 also kind to have me the parts list too? so i could do a round up purchase off from Valvestorm or Triode stores...

The only difference in the metro 50w instructions for a Model 18987 is how to wire the MV and the first preamp valve, couple of minor value changes around there and you are done.

Thanks alot guys ! now i have to make a smart purchase of getting a high quality build at slightly marked up price is ok... i'll try to sort out with valve amp or hoffman amps meanwhile whats the best tranny set that would serve best for the holy 2204 tone?

[quote="hopkinWFG" meanwhile whats the best tranny set that would serve best for the holy 2204 tone?[/quote]

Speak to Brian Wallace, of Marstran.

demonufo wrote:

hopkinWFG wrote: meanwhile whats the best tranny set that would serve best for the holy 2204 tone?

Speak to Brian Wallace, of Marstran.

+1

demonufo wrote:[quote="hopkinWFG" meanwhile whats the best tranny set that would serve best for the holy 2204 tone?

Speak to Brian Wallace, of Marstran. [/quote]

haha.. thanks alot for the help ! guys ill post again once i get my kit next month am afraid ... till then as i have more questions to ask and learn.....

well have few more questions here.. would marstran tranny produces a more springy tone,tighter and have clearer tone if i ever wanna turn the 2204 into a high gain beast?

so whats the do and not about going with capacitors filters or etc... from the two brand sozos and mallory..what are the substances and qualities each have in shaping the tone ?

how about solder ? which is the best solder out there for better current transfer?

For solder I like Kester SN63Pb37 I think the part no is #50/247. I've used a lot of different solders over the years and this one gives really consistent results, with much less flux residue than any I've tried. I've totally stopped looking for different solders.

Caps, I'd go with the Sozo's, simply because the Mallory's (actually just renamed Cornell Dubilier 150 series caps, which are much cheaper btw...) are metallized polyester, rather than polyester film/foil construction. Marshall used film/foil caps.

Filter caps I've started using ARS over F&T. JJ are right out in my book, and often don't measure well (I have a nice capacitor analyzer rather than just a cap tester).

I'm not sure as springy and tighter necessarily go together. It's usually a compromise, but more down to the circuit than anything else. Most of the regular 50W PT's have roughly the same current delivery. The big decision comes down to, do you want the lower voltage PT's like the mid 70's 50W Marshalls which often had a B+ of around 395V or the later of the JCM800 versions, which had a B+ of around 465V? The higher B+ amps have more headroom and punch, and aren't quite as smooth sounding. PARTICULARLY in the case of the 2204, as the preamp voltages are run VERY high, unless you add an extra dropping resistor. With the higher voltages on the pre-amp, 2204's can be very aggressive, a little ratty, and have a bit of extra sizzle that you can't dial out. However, they do have really punchy cleans. Funky as hell.

Personally, I use the higher B+ transformer and lower the preamp voltages accordingly, so the preamp is smooth, yet I still have a punchy power stage that doesn't compress quite as much.

sounds great ! thanks for the information. how about potentiometers and jacks input..? IE CTS,Alpha, bourns ? and neutriks and anyothers? kindly advise..

so with all the experience you had going out with builds and modifications.. did you ever thought off cloning a Soldano Superlead? or even a Fryette ? i guess they all evolved off from marshalls basic circuits and being modified to its own qualities?

Not really, but then by the time I'd started building 2204's I'd been playing the same circuit exclusively since I was 19, and had been playing about 6 months or so. I pretty much stay close to stock circuit, with bright cap intact. I do lower V1a cathode resistor to 8.2K, and that's about it really. Depending on the amp I might lower the v1b plate coupling cap to .0022uF and beef up the bass in the power stage by putting a .033uF or .047uF cap in the NFB loop, but that's about it. With the right cab, and the right tubes, this circuit just works for me.

Everybody else's mileage will vary though. I learnt to play a 2204, rather than learnt to play the guitar, if you get what I mean.