Hello all,
This is my first post on the Metro forum although I'm a long time lurker. I've learned alot from this website and have appreciated the willingness that everyone seems to display when it comes to helping others. I know Gutpile (Mike, this is Jim from Rockin' Horse Band) and met George earlier this year at the Detroit amp show and the Les Paul Jam. Around 2004 I began having an interest in old school Marshall amps and was on a quest to gain knowledge about them. Greg Germino was the first Marshall clone builder that I was exposed to which led me to purchase my first Germino....a Club 40. As my quest continued I began hearing about other builder's who built similar amps. Metro, Reinhardt and Wallace were such examples. It seems all of these guys have a healthy camaraderie and mutual repect for each other and share an extreme passion to build their Marshall inspired amps. But I'm intrigued about the inner working of tube amps and will be buying a Metro kit in the future. Anyway, on to the newbie questions. I would like to build an amp and also learn to troubleshoot and/or modify amps I currently own. But I need to acquire the correct tools for the job, therefore the following questions.
I have a WES50 soldering station. What size and type tips do you guys suggest for building amps that have turret boards? Do you use different tips for different applications, for example one size for turrets, another for lugs on pots, another for soldering the buses on the back of pots, or do you use one tip for everything?
Regarding shrink wrap tubing, I've seen some compact heat guns. What kind do you suggest?
Also regarding solder, what diameter do you suggest and is there a need for having more than one solder diameter?
Do you guys always tin wire before soldering?
Also what multimeter do you suggest? I was considering a Fluke 179, but it is expensive, although I do appreciate quality tools. What feature's should a meter have for amp building in general?
That's it for now (like that's not enough). Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Jim Fairbairn
First post.........seeking advice.
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
-
- New Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:17 am
First post.........seeking advice.
Last edited by Jim Fairbairn on Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 2:52 pm
- Location: St. Augustine, Florida
Re: First post.........seeking advice.
Hi Jim, welcome! You are in the right place for all your Marshall needs, there is no better place on earth.
Better be sure you want to get in to this...... it will take over your soul
Ha!
For solder I like Kester .050 diameter. Get 60/40 rosin core, and a pound at about 15 bucks will do you for a while.
http://www.kimcodistributing.com/store/ ... EM_ID=1100" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I also love my Fluke 115 True RMS Multimeter.
http://www.davis.com/catalog/product_vi ... ku=2601630" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This link shows a price of $156.95, but look around. I think they can still be had for about $125. This link showed all the specs though.
I was encouraged to get a true RMS meter by the members here. My 115 does everything I need very well.
Good luck with everything else! Frank
Better be sure you want to get in to this...... it will take over your soul

For solder I like Kester .050 diameter. Get 60/40 rosin core, and a pound at about 15 bucks will do you for a while.
http://www.kimcodistributing.com/store/ ... EM_ID=1100" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I also love my Fluke 115 True RMS Multimeter.
http://www.davis.com/catalog/product_vi ... ku=2601630" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This link shows a price of $156.95, but look around. I think they can still be had for about $125. This link showed all the specs though.
I was encouraged to get a true RMS meter by the members here. My 115 does everything I need very well.
Good luck with everything else! Frank
- cole
- Senior Member
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:25 pm
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: St. John's Newfoundland, CANADA
Re: First post.........seeking advice.
Okay I'll take a stab....
Kester solder (use small diameter on turret solder points (MHO)), and regular diameter solder on tube sockets, and larger points.
You don't necessarily need a heat gun...use the heat from the soldering gun...it'll do the job OR your sister's hair dryer up close.
Straighten electronic component leads (resistors and capacitors) before trimming and installing them using two hard surfaces and gently roll the leads flat, one end at a time. This is how I get mine straightened and it works great.
Purchase or make a decent amp cradle. You will find it much more enjoyable an experience to build if you just take the time to get this one item that is often overlooked.
I almost never tin my leads or wires, AND USE THE IRON SPARINGLY. In the meantime I prefer to use a small chisel tip (always keep it clean when in use) and use a new soldering tip per each build.
Triple check everything at the time you do the work and triple check again before testing.
When testing live use only one hand around the amp...if you ever get shocked by 500V you'll develop an instant respect for how much that can maim you, if not kill you. The current needed to stop a heart is all over the place in the amp when powered on...be CAREFUL.
Get a decent set of wire strippers, cutters, large toenail clippers for precise work (cutting component leads to length), and solder braid for any redoing of solder joints.
Be careful in applying the plexi panels on these kits. I have peeled them off shortly after applying them because I wasn't exact, and though you can reapply, it's not recommended. Take your time and do it only once.
Use a round rasp for eliminating any extra panel material around the chassis's amp control holes before you try to mount the pots in the chassis (after the panel is attached).
Use a well lit and safe, comfortable place for assembing the build, preferably some place that you can leave it all out when you are in the middle of a build.
Study the many builds on the forum. There is a LOT of awesome info here and many, many pictures and sound clips of incredible amps.
My last build...http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php ... 52#p185652" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Good luck, ask questions, and enjoy!
Cole
Kester solder (use small diameter on turret solder points (MHO)), and regular diameter solder on tube sockets, and larger points.
You don't necessarily need a heat gun...use the heat from the soldering gun...it'll do the job OR your sister's hair dryer up close.
Straighten electronic component leads (resistors and capacitors) before trimming and installing them using two hard surfaces and gently roll the leads flat, one end at a time. This is how I get mine straightened and it works great.
Purchase or make a decent amp cradle. You will find it much more enjoyable an experience to build if you just take the time to get this one item that is often overlooked.
I almost never tin my leads or wires, AND USE THE IRON SPARINGLY. In the meantime I prefer to use a small chisel tip (always keep it clean when in use) and use a new soldering tip per each build.
Triple check everything at the time you do the work and triple check again before testing.
When testing live use only one hand around the amp...if you ever get shocked by 500V you'll develop an instant respect for how much that can maim you, if not kill you. The current needed to stop a heart is all over the place in the amp when powered on...be CAREFUL.
Get a decent set of wire strippers, cutters, large toenail clippers for precise work (cutting component leads to length), and solder braid for any redoing of solder joints.
Be careful in applying the plexi panels on these kits. I have peeled them off shortly after applying them because I wasn't exact, and though you can reapply, it's not recommended. Take your time and do it only once.
Use a round rasp for eliminating any extra panel material around the chassis's amp control holes before you try to mount the pots in the chassis (after the panel is attached).
Use a well lit and safe, comfortable place for assembing the build, preferably some place that you can leave it all out when you are in the middle of a build.
Study the many builds on the forum. There is a LOT of awesome info here and many, many pictures and sound clips of incredible amps.
My last build...http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php ... 52#p185652" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Good luck, ask questions, and enjoy!
Cole
Les Paul Classic, Les Paul Standard Faded, Fender American Strat
Jackson Custom Shop Strat s/n 1226
JMP 2203, JCM 800 2205, Metro JTM 45
Metropoulos '68 12 Series s/n 12026
Marshall 1960 A/B 4 X 12's
Jackson Custom Shop Strat s/n 1226
JMP 2203, JCM 800 2205, Metro JTM 45
Metropoulos '68 12 Series s/n 12026
Marshall 1960 A/B 4 X 12's