12002: 2" OT

vh junkie · Post by **vh junkie** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:43 am

FWIW, I would never use a dremel on an amp. Too many small metallic particles. Going everywhere. For the steel chassis you can corral particles with a well placed flexible refrigerator ad magnet. Aluminum, your outta luck. Stepping drill bits at slow speed only.

Even if you clean around the holes, it wil re-oxidize in time.
For the plexi panel holes, a hobby knife is fast and easy.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:56 am

I just used it just around the holes on low and cleaned everything of with a magnet and contact cleaner. Once adding any components, I wouldn't advise that either.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Fri Sep 23, 2011 8:38 am

Back at this now.

Started heater wires and drill holes in chassis for ZFLEX. Not in the faceplates though. Perhaps later.

Whats the best way to extend the green heater ground to Larry ground lug#1? Solder extra wire and heatshrink at the end or cut short at the PT and do the same thing?

Where is the best place to add a #6 ground lug for the wall ground? I think Ill move it off the PI cap holder as well.

Strat78 · Post by **Strat78** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:02 am

Awesome, can't wait to see this amp come to life! Radio Shack caries those little square wire mounting tabs which attach to the chassis with double sided tape. don't cut that ground wire close to the PT, there is enough crowding going on around there, just add the extra wire at the end. Have you started populating the boards yet?

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:51 am

Strat78 wrote:Awesome, can't wait to see this amp come to life! Radio Shack caries those little square wire mounting tabs which attach to the chassis with double sided tape. don't cut that ground wire close to the PT, there is enough crowding going on around there, just add the extra wire at the end. Have you started populating the boards yet?

Haven't done the boards yet. Have boards from Brian and George. I may wire them in with top wires and populate at that point.
I pulled all the secondary OT wires through the one hole closest to the selector switch.

I'll check out the Shack dude. Wish they sold beer as well.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:18 am

Heater wires done. Used and iphone for a few pics. Terrible for this stuff up close.

I turned the ground lugs all the way counterclockwise for v4-v7. Seems to improve the space to do a better job on the heaters.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:21 am

Boards ala vhjunkie's pic. Went with the newer grid stopper arrangement. Going to move the secondary PT between v6 and v7 to seperate from the primaries.

I managed to fit the FRED diodes onto the turrets. They look a little untidy and bent. Should have done a wrap around on 2 of them. Lesson learned!!!!

Found some big ass heatshrink and did the extra unused tranny wires.

I have the wall gound on the PI filter cap ground but will also move that to underneath the cord strain relief hole.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:40 am

Tone Slinger · Post by **Tone Slinger** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:07 am

Man, thats the neatest, tightest, most precise heater wiring I have ever seen !

What spec are going for with this build ?

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:33 am

Tone Slinger wrote:Man, thats the neatest, tightest, most precise heater wiring I have ever seen !

What spec are going for with this build ?

I spent a lot of time on that part. No drill either. I keep rethinking and changing positions of the other stuff so I fiqured I needed to get that done well the first time. Going back and having to redo the heaters would be like surgery. You may as well build an entire new amp.

Dave Friedman's "Let the cat out of the bag and it spilt the Beans" EVH spec's with the variac'd bias.

Strat78 · Post by **Strat78** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:07 pm

Are the wires touching on those diods crossing eachother? Insane heater wiring for sure, nice!

Also, I don't know if you still have Chris's wire codes for the PT:

The T2562 wire color codes...

PRIMARY:
ORANGE = common nuetral
WHITE/red = 100V Japan...
RED= 120V
BROWN= 220V
BLUE = 230V
PURPLE = 240V

SECONDARY:
Black & Blue= High Voltage to diodes or stand-by....
Yellow = High Voltage Center-Tap....connect between first group of caps...
Thick BLACK wire = Heaters
Green wires go to ground...
White = bias

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 4:41 pm

No, the diodes are about 3mm apart.

Yeah I have the color codes but I just keep second guessing about them. I've been looking at your pics but its hard to follow where everything is going. The 12000's are the toughest amp to get assemple. Shit is just everywhere. If you don't take your time and really place things well, your in for trouble later.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:12 am

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:25 am

Moved OT ohm selector wires to other side of V6 separating the primaries from secondaries.

axeman · Post by **axeman** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:06 pm

I have some MiniWatt .1uf 400v capacitors. I'll give you a good price vanhalen5150

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