Metropoulos Forum

Hello, first Post...

Just ordered the 100w kit...
The power transformer shown on the step by step instructions, is NOT
the power transformer they sent me...

My kit came with the Metroamp 1203-80-MS...

On the instructions, at step five (B) the instructions are to get the two
BLACK wires from the pt.. these are the heater wires.. My transformer
dosen't have any black wires...

You also run into the same problem during step (9) when its time to
wire up the other side of the pt...

Here is what the wiring diagram that came with my transformer lists
each wire...

2 Red Wires
1 Red/Yellow Wire- Center Tap
2 Blue/Red wires- 80%
2 Green- 6.3 Heater
1 Green/Yellow Center Tap
___________________________________________________________

1 Orange- Common
1 Red- 120 V
1 Blue- 220 V
1 Violet- 240 V


Can someone tell me what wire goes where?...
Or better yet, Post some photos of their amp with this transformer.


Question #2
My caps came with no + or - terminal markings...

There are two taps that have no markings and one tap has a black mark
across the top... I'm assuming the one marked black is the negative
terminal..

These are CHEAP, Taiwan made Caps..
Not like the old LCR's that came with CORRECT terminal Marks,
not only printed on the side of the cap, but with color coated taps on top.

Question #3
The .1uf 100V cap that goes across the presence control in the instructions, dosen't look like some of the other amp photos ive seen
on the forum..
I've seen people using the Sozo 104K here...
I did get the Sozo upgrade.. So, is this what goes across the presence control?

Any Help Would Be Great...
Thanks....

JesseB wrote: The power transformer shown on the step by step instructions, is NOT
the power transformer they sent me...

My kit came with the Metroamp 1203-80-MS...

You are correct it is not the same PT, actually it is BETTER as you have two B+ voltages to choose from now, so can simulate a "variaced" ala EVH tone if desired.

JesseB wrote: On the instructions, at step five (B) the instructions are to get the two
BLACK wires from the pt.. these are the heater wires.. My transformer
dosen't have any black wires...

Those are your 2 green wires now = 6.3V heaters as described in the diagram.

JesseB wrote: You also run into the same problem during step (9) when its time to
wire up the other side of the pt...

Step 9 A amended: Now, install the (2) toggle switches. The red wire (grouped with the purple, blue, and orange wires all of the same thickness) from the PT attaches to the lower two terminals of the power switch. The RED/YELLOW from the PT attaches to, and connects together, the positive terminals of the filter cap closest to it. The orange wire attaches to the mains fuse holder (4 amp fuse).

Step 9 B amended:The TWO RED wires (OR the two BLUE/RED if you want a lower "variaced" B+) wires get twisted together and attach to the lower two terminals of the standby switch. The unused wires (two reds or two red/blues) if not using a dual B+ switch, should be clipped long enough to reach the switch easily, the ends heatshrinked in case you decide to try them later. At this point all then PT wires should be attached except the white bias tap wire (if you have two blue wires, no white wire, this means one of them, doesn't matter which) which connects to the circuit board.

JesseB wrote:Question #2
My caps came with no + or - terminal markings...

There are two taps that have no markings and one tap has a black mark
across the top... I'm assuming the one marked black is the negative
terminal..

These are CHEAP, Taiwan made Caps..
Not like the old LCR's that came with CORRECT terminal Marks,
not only printed on the side of the cap, but with color coated taps on top.

The LCR color coded tabs doesn't mean much, just that they were + terminals or neg, black is indeed the negative terminal for your new caps, doesn't matter which of the two remaining + terminals get which B+ wire, most are bridged anyway.

Cheap doesn't necessarily mean bad, I just picked up some of these myself today, will see how they do at handling the ripple under load on the O-scope compared the ARS, LCR, and F&T. Uf tolerances on the 5 I have are so far very tight (all very near 50uf), better than most. But final call on those is still out for me until tested further.

Good luck with your build, and welcome to the board!

SDM, Steve you are awsome! bluze

Thanks for the help Steve..

I'll be working on the amp later on today
and you've helped me out alot..

I'm ready to fire this beast up and just got
pissed because I didn't have the correct
instructions for the tranny........