Does anyone know the metric dimensions of the Zero-loss FX loop, latest version?
I'm gonna install one, external "breakout style" in a box. I figured a bulk pedal kit diecast chassis would do the trick. I'm just worried it's not tall enough.
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/produ ... BLACK.html
I haven't got the loop yet, so I can't just measure it.
THANKS!
/J
Zero Loss Loop dimensions
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
- Jofipe
- New Member
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:21 pm
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1644
- Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 6:24 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: MI
- Contact:
Re: Zero Loss Loop dimensions
Looks like internal height is going to be very close, too close, a problem -unless you remount the electrolytic filter as described below.
ZL loop board is around 87mm (3.43") long, about 45mm (1.77") wide (with extra washers on jacks that you may need for panel), so no issues there. Height is about 28mm (1.1") though. Give or take a mm or 2 all around for tolerances and such too.
Do need some clearance above the electrolytic filter cap and below the bottom of the board (don't want to short anything out as pads on bottom extend through to both sides and such), so looks like internal height isn't quite enough with board as per stock.
Aside from safety/short reasons, also a good idea to provide room for some cooling. Loop SS bits don't generate much heat, but in a very small sealed container, even a little heat can build up. Hence if you must use a very small/tight space, a good idea to have some way of getting a bit of airflow in there to ventilate (i.e. a few ventilation holes on a couple sides or such for good measure).
The electrolytic filter can be remounted parallel/laying on the board, but would require removing it, extending the leads (or replacing the electrolytic with a new one with stock longer leads) to save some height. Height would then be roughly 20mm (or .79"), and then the board could/would fit, but still need to be careful in planning. Be sure to get polarity correct on filter reinstall if you need do this!!! Below is a pic of a loop with the cap in question remounted to save space in an unusual/tight install. Note the heatshrink applied to the filter cap leg there as an extra safety precaution to protect against accidental touches/shorts. May be able to order the loop this way from Metro, but not sure, would have to ask them.
Be extra careful to protect/prevent the bottom of the board from shorting to enclosure in a tight space (very good idea, strongly recommended to put a non-conductive/insulator material on/between enclosure face nearest bottom of loop board and loop board bottom). Add some ventilation holes, lay the filter cap down, and looks like it'd work.
Perhaps easier in the end to just find a bit taller enclosure though if you can.
ZL loop board is around 87mm (3.43") long, about 45mm (1.77") wide (with extra washers on jacks that you may need for panel), so no issues there. Height is about 28mm (1.1") though. Give or take a mm or 2 all around for tolerances and such too.
Do need some clearance above the electrolytic filter cap and below the bottom of the board (don't want to short anything out as pads on bottom extend through to both sides and such), so looks like internal height isn't quite enough with board as per stock.
Aside from safety/short reasons, also a good idea to provide room for some cooling. Loop SS bits don't generate much heat, but in a very small sealed container, even a little heat can build up. Hence if you must use a very small/tight space, a good idea to have some way of getting a bit of airflow in there to ventilate (i.e. a few ventilation holes on a couple sides or such for good measure).
The electrolytic filter can be remounted parallel/laying on the board, but would require removing it, extending the leads (or replacing the electrolytic with a new one with stock longer leads) to save some height. Height would then be roughly 20mm (or .79"), and then the board could/would fit, but still need to be careful in planning. Be sure to get polarity correct on filter reinstall if you need do this!!! Below is a pic of a loop with the cap in question remounted to save space in an unusual/tight install. Note the heatshrink applied to the filter cap leg there as an extra safety precaution to protect against accidental touches/shorts. May be able to order the loop this way from Metro, but not sure, would have to ask them.
Be extra careful to protect/prevent the bottom of the board from shorting to enclosure in a tight space (very good idea, strongly recommended to put a non-conductive/insulator material on/between enclosure face nearest bottom of loop board and loop board bottom). Add some ventilation holes, lay the filter cap down, and looks like it'd work.
Perhaps easier in the end to just find a bit taller enclosure though if you can.
- Attachments
-
- filter cap flat on board.jpg (71.84 KiB) Viewed 1955 times
- Jofipe
- New Member
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:21 pm
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
Re: Zero Loss Loop dimensions
thanks ALLOT for your awesome answer and advices! I'll look into getting a taller chassis for the install. Ill post pictures when it's all done
What would you normally use as insulator material for this purpose?
Thanks!
What would you normally use as insulator material for this purpose?
Thanks!
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1644
- Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 6:24 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: MI
- Contact:
Re: Zero Loss Loop dimensions
Would only have to worry about an insulator here if the board is sitting very very close to/just above the chassis (and the chassis/box is conductive/metal or such). Could use a proper varnish, phenolic, proper fish paper, thin fiber board piece, various insulating films or tapes, etc.. "Poor mans" way of doing it would be to just use electrical tape, though the other things listed are easy to find/cheap/more "elegant".
If you are going with a taller box though, then most likely won't have to worry about it at all. The board is very light and held very well by the input jacks. For extra precaution if still a bit worried the bottom of the board could ever touch the chassis though, you'll have a wire hole pass through which you can use for a pcb standoff (near where board is silk screened "FX Rev 3A". If you have room to use that hole with a short standoff, board will be going nowhere once that and input jacks are secured. Would take an absurd amount of G's to bend or dislodge it enough to short anything vital, never going to happen in any realistic scenario. So, that is the route I'd likely go, but only if the board bottom sits say less than around 3/8" of an inch from the chassis/box it's mounted in, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it at all.
If you are going with a taller box though, then most likely won't have to worry about it at all. The board is very light and held very well by the input jacks. For extra precaution if still a bit worried the bottom of the board could ever touch the chassis though, you'll have a wire hole pass through which you can use for a pcb standoff (near where board is silk screened "FX Rev 3A". If you have room to use that hole with a short standoff, board will be going nowhere once that and input jacks are secured. Would take an absurd amount of G's to bend or dislodge it enough to short anything vital, never going to happen in any realistic scenario. So, that is the route I'd likely go, but only if the board bottom sits say less than around 3/8" of an inch from the chassis/box it's mounted in, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it at all.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 2:51 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: Italy
- Contact:
Re: Zero Loss Loop dimensions
Do you know the distance between the center of the jack send and the center of the jack return ? I'm ordering a custom faceplate and i need the measure of the distance between both jack to print the "send" "return" with the right position.