Kit Building Questions

[harkkam08]

Guys I am thinking of building a JTM 45 Kit, I think I've decided its the best fit for me. However I have a few questions.

1. How do people get the wires to twist so neatly in many of the builds I have seen (somebody said drill i think)?
2. How can I keep the leads as straight as possible and neat on the turret boards, Ive seen some builds with bent leads.
3. How do I properly drain the filter caps and measure the voltage at the same time?
4. How do people check a joint to make sure it is good? (Ive seen red sharpie markers)
5. Can I populate the turret board outside of the chassis?

I know that I should take a alligator clip and attach it to the 100k resistor of the board on the far left side and attach it to the chassis. But where do I put the two leads from my multimeter to make sure the Caps have no voltage. Thanks guys

I am assuming for connection testing you set your multimeter to the continuity setting and listen for a beep?

[mc_guitar]

Hello,

1. Yes, by using a power drill. But be careful not to damage the wires. It is also possible to do this by hand, but would need some more effort
2. You can use cable or wire, and the more gauge it has the more stable it stays in its position.
3. There are a lot of HowTos on the web about that. Attach the leads of the DMM to the right points and then you can operate hands free.
4. It's all about the experience...You still have to have a closer look at the joints, they should be shiny and clear, no dirty surface of the joint.
5. You should install all the parts on the board first. Then install all the wires on the board and finally install the board into the chassis.

Cheers Michael

[harkkam08]

I meant the turret board and the components. I've heard people using lead benders to help them bend the leads at 90 degrees and then wrap it around the post. Is that how its done?

Thanks guys

[mc_guitar]

I just take small pliers to bend the component leads. No need to use a special tool there. It is more needed for PCB boards with a special grid size.

Cheers

[flemingmras]

Guys I am thinking of building a JTM 45 Kit, I think I've decided its the best fit for me. However I have a few questions.

1. How do people get the wires to twist so neatly in many of the builds I have seen (somebody said drill i think)?
2. How can I keep the leads as straight as possible and neat on the turret boards, Ive seen some builds with bent leads.
3. How do I properly drain the filter caps and measure the voltage at the same time?
4. How do people check a joint to make sure it is good? (Ive seen red sharpie markers)
5. Can I populate the turret board outside of the chassis?

I know that I should take a alligator clip and attach it to the 100k resistor of the board on the far left side and attach it to the chassis. But where do I put the two leads from my multimeter to make sure the Caps have no voltage. Thanks guys

I am assuming for connection testing you set your multimeter to the continuity setting and listen for a beep?

As far as loading the components onto the board first vs wiring it first, I find that it's much easier to solder the wires onto the offboard components first (i.e. tube sockets, pots, jacks, etc etc), THEN solder the other ends of them to the board at the same time I'm loading the components onto the board. I save the tube sockets for last as this allows me to still be able to pull the board up and out of the way for underboard stuff.

[neikeel]

You see we are all different.

I wire the links and all the wires onto the board first, whilst I can flip it over and see both sides (I leave all wires approx 1" too long to allow for lead dress). I then solder all the components onto the board. Again inspect all the links and wires.

Then I lay the board in place and cut the leads to length. I remove it from the chassis to strip back the wires (I use spring loaded wire strippers), once done I start at valve socket side first and then the pots side.

Works for me, but we all have different styles

[demonufo]

You see we are all different.

I wire the links and all the wires onto the board first, whilst I can flip it over and see both sides (I leave all wires approx 1" too long to allow for lead dress). I then solder all the components onto the board. Again inspect all the links and wires.

Then I lay the board in place and cut the leads to length. I remove it from the chassis to strip back the wires (I use spring loaded wire strippers), once done I start at valve socket side first and then the pots side.

Works for me, but we all have different styles

I'm with Neil on this, almost!
I do wires to board first, then components, then wire board to pots, and tube sockets last.

[demonufo]

But where do I put the two leads from my multimeter to make sure the Caps have no voltage.?

Just measure from the positive terminals of the cap (with positive lead) to the amp chassis (negative lead)

What's more, I think the power drill is a terrible way to twist wires. If using George's amp wiring kit, it's easy to do it with fingers (providing you have a firm grip) as the wire stays formed quite nicely.
Just go real slow, and make sure you're happy with every stage of your build. Certain things that you think you could have done better will only annoy you at a later stage.
For connection testing I like to use a 500v megger. But you have to be damned careful where you use it, and not every joint can be tested this way, since there are often components in the way.
It's not often you'll need to test connections if you have a nicy shiny joint, with the molten solder nicely widespread, rather than a blob hanging from one part of a joint. Testing connections doesn't always show a bad joint, since they can be mechanical too, and sometimes appear to be okay.

[6burgh]

+1 on the hand twisted technique! Slow and steady works best for me, just personal preference. And I'm also with Neil on this one in terms of wiring strategy. Make all of your own lead dress measurements, don't just read values in the instructions. They are right, as the instruction are done incredibly well, but everybody's lead dress will be a bit different.

[OnTheFritz]

+1 on the hand twisted technique! Slow and steady works best for me, just personal preference. And I'm also with Neil on this one in terms of wiring strategy. Make all of your own lead dress measurements, don't just read values in the instructions. They are right, as the instruction are done incredibly well, but everybody's lead dress will be a bit different.

+2
I tried a drill once a few years ago at somebody's suggestion, and it's definitely not for me. Hand twisting all the way!
I also wire things up like Neil seemingly to a *T*.