For those who have a Metropoulos '68 Series ...

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:05 am

I have few cases I can ship out for amp returns if you guys want. I could also ship new amps in them and include a return label.
I sent the 45/100 and the 45 to LA and back in cases and they survived. Even the NOS tubes that were boxed and packed inside.

George

5150loveeddie · Post by **5150loveeddie** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:24 am

Last chassis I got was like the one Cole showed on the pic, I weldered it back in.....

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:17 am

I believe that the issue of the weak ends of the chassis (weak depending on how much stress) is due to the two spot welds on each end.

If the chassis was welded on the seam = much stronger joint but may not be 'historically' correct.

Metal epoxy did not work for me.

I will probably have to weigh options:

-spot weld
-tig/mig weld

All I know is that it's drivin' me nuts. I want it fixed but a good job done with no visible marks on the chassis such that no one could ever tell anything had gone wrong.

I am a hopeless perfectionist!!!

Cole

NitroLiq · Post by **NitroLiq** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:45 am

Just curious but was this shipped already screwed into the head cab? I've found it better, though I suppose from a shipping cost POV not as great as it would double the cost, to ship the chassis and cab separately. When the chassis is attached to the cab, it puts more stress on the ends which can cause it to warp or bend.

What I do is use a heavy-duty double-corrugated box laying in enough bubblewrap/packing foam so that the chassis lies about halfway in the box with padding on each end. Next, I cut out a piece of the carboard and screw that down over the open end of the chassis to protect the insides, then bubble wrap all that so it's good and bulletproof, then lay it down transformer side down. Then I finish bubble-wrapping the rest of the box. Finally, you do the same thing with another box and the head cab. I've heard of some companies using those cargo boxes (the wood crates) to ship their amps....maybe overkill but maybe more secure.

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:13 pm

NitroLiq wrote:Just curious but was this shipped already screwed into the head cab? I've found it better, though I suppose from a shipping cost POV not as great as it would double the cost, to ship the chassis and cab separately. When the chassis is attached to the cab, it puts more stress on the ends which can cause it to warp or bend.

What I do is use a heavy-duty double-corrugated box laying in enough bubblewrap/packing foam so that the chassis lies about halfway in the box with padding on each end. Next, I cut out a piece of the carboard and screw that down over the open end of the chassis to protect the insides, then bubble wrap all that so it's good and bulletproof, then lay it down transformer side down. Then I finish bubble-wrapping the rest of the box. Finally, you do the same thing with another box and the head cab. I've heard of some companies using those cargo boxes (the wood crates) to ship their amps....maybe overkill but maybe more secure.

This is what I had requested, that the chassis and head case ship separately, and this is what was done.

P.S. I DO NOT hold Metro responsible for this - the goddamned shippers are absolutely without a clue!!! Period.

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:21 pm

I feel your frustration Cole. Please know that you're welcome to either return the amp or keep it. And don't feel pressured to make that choice right away. Ultimately, I just want you to be 100% satisfied.

Regarding shipping the chassis bolted to the board: I made that call myself, and I disagree that cardboard (less stress on the chassis) would have prevented this.

Regarding a repair: only spot welding the tabs would be historically accurate. And would also leave less indication of a repair. There would only be a dark circle where each weld is made.

George

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:26 pm

Thanks George. You are the best man!!

NitroLiq · Post by **NitroLiq** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:00 pm

VelvetGeorge wrote:Regarding shipping the chassis bolted to the board: I disagree that cardboard (less stress on the chassis) would have prevented this.

I was talking about the difference between attaching the chassis inside the head cab vs. sending separately with cardboard, not attached to a a free-standing wood board. I don't know...shipping is such the luck of the draw much of the time whatever method is used. I just figure that anything with weight enough to wrench the chassis ears is better avoided....maybe my own superstition. I've heard horror stories of amps arriving after they've been speared by forklifts...Imagine when something like that shows up at the door.

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:07 pm

Ah! I see what you guys were saying. Makes sense.

In this case, we cut a piece of plywood to the indide of the box dimensions. So it couldn't move at all. Then bolted the chassis to it, put it in the box and packed material around it.

I feel that the spot welds should have held up under most any drop. And I'm taking that up with the stamping plant.

VG

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:59 pm

Just as an aside, I have a friend's JCM 800 2203 downstairs and compared it to the Metro 68 that George built for me...

...can I say that the difference between both amps to me means either playing the bejesus of my guitar(my Metro) or giving up playing altogether (the JCM 800).

I CANNOT BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!

The 85 2203 sounds sterile, void of all sweet warm tones, and just plain yukk!

The Metro sounds sooo sweet, and smooth, yet balls +.

No wonder I hold George's work up to the very best in the amp world!

Having said this, I will be buying at least two more '68's from Metro. Don't panic George

, I will be picking these up personally, whether you are in good ole MI or in TX, or CA.

This will be a next year purchase of course...just buying NOS stuff and the UA, plus a new Garrison acoustic , has me out of funds for this year!

If I can finds me a decent pro who can spot weld for me and take care in doing a good job, I'll be on top of the world!

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:21 pm

Food for thought Cole, make sure you gently peel back those plexi panels a bit from the ends if you have that chassis tack welded, maybe even a heat sink of some sort as well.
I picture those getting trashed with the heat from the welding!!

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:24 pm

Thanks for the heads up.

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:28 pm

No probs, maybe I'm over reacting, cause I was just thinking it's a 100 watter, so there's more distance to the joint from the ends of the plexi-panels, but it's probably still something to think about just in case!

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll get everything worked out to your satisfaction!
These Metro amps do absolutely rock!