Metropoulos Forum

Well, I thought I would post a recent discovery. I had been having trouble keeping my Callaham trem in tune. Not by what you might think in hitting the bar and having the strings go sharp. Whenever I would bend my G string, it would come back flat until I hit the bar and then everything would be in tune. I lubed, filed, and twisted just about everything until I read about the tension from the springs counteracting string bending. I did not have enough tension from the springs so that when I did bend, the trem would lift, ever so slightly and the springs would not have enough tension to bring the string back into tune. That is until I hit the bar to give enough pull back...if that make sense.

Probably a basic set up issue but thought I would share....

Tone Slinger is the man on this topic. Maybe he'll pop in and give us some good tips. I still need to work on mine a bit.

Thanks .
I tell ya, I've been at this (vintage tremelo tuning stability) for a while now. For me, the final step in the right direction, was finding the Frudua vids on YouTube. I have had to create ways to emplement the mods that he disclosed, but have had great success with them. If anyone is interested in a detailed description, pm me.

Double locking systems, like the Floyd Rose and Kahler,will go out of tune. The string stretches flat when new AND when too old (the strings that is). With a 6 screw, you have to perfect the springs tension 'balance'. Typically the nut is cut wrong and sharpness in pitch ensues. There are mods that can be done to improve tuning performance, BUT, the fundamentals (spring tension) is of utmost importance.

What about the spring tension? I just have mine tighter than the string pull as it sits flush. Mine stays in tune as long as I don't use it.

vanhalen5150 wrote:What about the spring tension? I just have mine tighter than the string pull as it sits flush. Mine stays in tune as long as I don't use it.

yeah, I found that is key. Mine would go flat after a bend, which means that the tension holding the string (nut, tree, whatever) was a stronger pull than the springs. Now the springs are "strong" enough to pull the string back to pitch.

That, to me is a different issue than the tuning set up, vis a vis Frudua although they have a somewhat symbiotic relationship.

If the springs are TOO tight or too loose,you are gonna have some tuning issue's. You can set it up to sort of 'float',like Blackmore did and get good results,but I personally set mine so that when I do a one step bend, the tremelo rises just a hair off the guitar. Obviously, a strat,or any 25 1/2 scale guitar will hold its tuning VERY well, when NOT using a bar, concerning left hand bends,IF it is set up to not use the bar. Gibson,or any other 24 3/4 scale doesnt do this as well. In my experience the unwound strings can be bent flat quite easily on Gibby's(ESPECIALLY that darn g string). To get a 6 screw tremelo to stay in tune for BOTH bar use AND left hand bends is a balancing act (of the spring tension that is) to get the BEST results. In my exp. there are 3 main things to do to a tremelo that will 'enhance' the results of having a proper set up.
1)properly cut nut
2) WAY deep entry holes in the sustain block (to simulate no string past the saddle friction point)
3) Beveled screws (6) with the plates holes modded to create a fulcrum effect.
Basically Frudua formula.

I rarely use a bar at all anymore. But I've been thinking about drilling my block out. How far?

vanhalen5150 wrote:I rarely use a bar at all anymore. But I've been thinking about drilling my block out. How far?

Are you having tuning issues?

rgorke wrote:

vanhalen5150 wrote:I rarely use a bar at all anymore. But I've been thinking about drilling my block out. How far?

Are you having tuning issues?

Just when using the trem. Slightly at that. I believe its all at the screws.

vanhalen5150 wrote:I rarely use a bar at all anymore. But I've been thinking about drilling my block out. How far?

I drill the block to where the wound reinforced end of the string exits the saddle. Minimize the string length as much as possible.

YMI5150? wrote:

vanhalen5150 wrote:I rarely use a bar at all anymore. But I've been thinking about drilling my block out. How far?

I drill the block to where the wound reinforced end of the string exits the saddle. Minimize the string length as much as possible.

You mean right before it hits the saddle correct? I also have one dof the old Schetcher/Mighty Mite brass bridges that would most likely improve with this.

About 1/16th of an inch is optimum. Some blocks (like the Callahams) have a counter bore at the blocks exit holes.This keeps you to about an 8th of an inch from exiting the block. The counter bore is cool, for an unmodded block, as it eleviates a bit of the strings angle/friction as it heads up to the plate.Since I go to 1/16th, I round the angle at the plates 6 holes. Fudua doesnt drill his as deep. As long as you get to around 1 to 2 8ths from exit,your good imo.

Another trick is to use bullet end strings. You can get deeper in the block, without the 'overwind' of the string(on ball ends) getting near your saddle (this depends on your bridge intonation). I use the Fender 3150xL.

The angle of the plate against the strings would seem to be a potential problem. I had often though of making the plate holes bigger and dropping in a graphite donut.