Need some Heyboer wiring code help
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
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Need some Heyboer wiring code help
I need some help figuring out the wiring codes for the PT and OPT that I have
The OPT is a Heyboer that Is a Dagnall replica I believe.
Marked as 100-Dagnal
HTS-8094
9960513
One side has 3 18AWG wires Red, Brown, White
The other side has 4 14AWG wires Yellow, Green, Brown, Black
The PT is a Heyboer
PT100-120
HTS-7232
9960644
One side has 2 18AWG black wires, 2 22AWG Blue wires, 1 22AWG yellow wire
The other side has 2 22 AWG wires, one green the other white, 3 14 AWG wires, 2 black and one green
Anyone have a clue on this?
The OPT is a Heyboer that Is a Dagnall replica I believe.
Marked as 100-Dagnal
HTS-8094
9960513
One side has 3 18AWG wires Red, Brown, White
The other side has 4 14AWG wires Yellow, Green, Brown, Black
The PT is a Heyboer
PT100-120
HTS-7232
9960644
One side has 2 18AWG black wires, 2 22AWG Blue wires, 1 22AWG yellow wire
The other side has 2 22 AWG wires, one green the other white, 3 14 AWG wires, 2 black and one green
Anyone have a clue on this?
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The OT almost certainly has the same wiring colours as George's Heyboer output transformer:
http://store.metroamp.com/product_info. ... cts_id=321
Unless anyone else comes up with anything on the PT I'd email Phil at Heyboer (see www.heyboertransformers.com for the email address) and I'm sure he'll be able to give you the specs.
Paul
http://store.metroamp.com/product_info. ... cts_id=321
Unless anyone else comes up with anything on the PT I'd email Phil at Heyboer (see www.heyboertransformers.com for the email address) and I'm sure he'll be able to give you the specs.
Paul
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- Wicksy
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I guess he means the two black wires on the primary sode are you 0V tap and 110V tap while the others:
Blue - Yellow - Blue are your HT supply. Yellow is the centre tap and the two blues go to the rectifier.
Green and white are your non-centre tapped bias winding.
The heaters are your two 14 gauge black wires and its centre tap is the light green wire.
Blue - Yellow - Blue are your HT supply. Yellow is the centre tap and the two blues go to the rectifier.
Green and white are your non-centre tapped bias winding.
The heaters are your two 14 gauge black wires and its centre tap is the light green wire.
Simon
- Flames1950
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I'll concur with Flames that Wicksy's dead on. Heyboer usually use plain black as their primaries unless it's a replica, so that fits their usual pattern.
If you look at this Heyboer power transformer:
http://store.metroamp.com/images/1203-80-MS.gif
and consider the fact that you've only got a 120V primary then the secondaries (the right hand side) correspond to the colour codes you have as well. Only in your case you haven't got two different HVs to choose from.
Centre taps will always be in a different colour to the coil ends, which are usually the same colour so I think you've got just about everything you need to start using it.
The only thing I'd wonder about is whether it's 385-0-385V for a full-wave rectifier like a 50W, or 385V across the whole secondary for bridge rectification like a 100W. The fact that Heyboer hasn't specified 385-0-385V and they've included a bias winding leads me to suspect it's 385V across the whole secondary. This is easily verified though by carefully measuring the output across the HV before connecting it in circuit.
If you look at this Heyboer power transformer:
http://store.metroamp.com/images/1203-80-MS.gif
and consider the fact that you've only got a 120V primary then the secondaries (the right hand side) correspond to the colour codes you have as well. Only in your case you haven't got two different HVs to choose from.
Centre taps will always be in a different colour to the coil ends, which are usually the same colour so I think you've got just about everything you need to start using it.
The only thing I'd wonder about is whether it's 385-0-385V for a full-wave rectifier like a 50W, or 385V across the whole secondary for bridge rectification like a 100W. The fact that Heyboer hasn't specified 385-0-385V and they've included a bias winding leads me to suspect it's 385V across the whole secondary. This is easily verified though by carefully measuring the output across the HV before connecting it in circuit.
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Doesn't matter, just make sure the two black heater wires go to the tube socket (one to pin 2 the other to pin 7), and the green heater CT goes to ground.
-Steve
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