Metropoulos Forum

Hey guys, if I pull the magnets out of some pickups, is there a way to tell what they are. AlNiCo II, V, etc. Also, If they're AlNiCo II's (for example) can I increase the output by using larger magnets of the same? Or perhaps even using V's or Ceramics? Thanks.

I one time pulled out the two extra magnet bars that I had at the time from one of my many 'parts' boxes . I knew one was an A5 and tha other an A2. Problem was is that I didnt have them labeled . I figured it out in a hurry though. I simply did a test to see which one had more power.One 'picked up' stuff and 'stuck to' stuff stronger. A5 obviously .

I'm not sure about the topics question though,but I'm sure there is testers. One thing of consideration is that you can charge up or charge down particular magnet types.In other words a FULLY charged A2 is still gonna be an A2, not an A3, A4,etc, etc.

Hmm. I get what you're saying about the charging but I'd like to figure out what they are to begin with. Some kind of metallurgist's tool?

You'll need a Gauss meter to know for sure. It measures the flux density, and you'll be able to work out the magnet from that.

You'll need more than a gauss meter. How will you know if they are fully charged to begin with? Full charge A2, or weak A5? Or A4, which will take a strong charge and might seem like A5. Or full charge A3, which would compare with a weaker A2. You can tell the strength with a gauss meter, and you can use big neo blocks to full (or nearly full) charge them, but to know for certain what they are, you would have to have one analyzed by a magnet manufacturer for composition. IF you can fully charge them, A5 will usually stand out as being stronger than the others, but then there are the oddball A6 or A8 to think about also...

It's OK to to just tell me "I'm fucked" I can handle it.

swap them, try them, stick with the one you like most... simple as that

Remember that changing magnets can bring either good or bad results, depending on the pickup project... it's a mix of factors that interact together.

my .02 cents

I don't have others to swap. If I could figure out what they were to begin with, I could just buy some of whatever these are not and go from there but hell, I guess I could just buy some spares of II's, V's, VIII's and ceramics. Then have that beer.

I only saw A2 and A5 at Stewmac. Wish they had more

e-bay is full of II's, III's, IV's, V's, etc. All kinds of options with them too in terms of sizes, charged/uncharched, etc.

I've bought several magnets from this company before http://addiction-fx.com/index.html

mightymike wrote:
If you have a Duncan, the difference between 3 of their models is just the Mag. So if you get the one with a Ceramic ( Sh5 I believe) then try an a5 and I think it makes it into a JB, and an A2 might make it a classic 59 or something. Trying to remember the models. There's a tgread here somewhere that details it out. Sorry if I'm off on which, but you get the jest.

Custom: Ceramic 14k 43awg
Custom5: A5 14k 43awg
Cusotm Custom: A2 14k 43awg

JB: A5 16.4k 44awg
Duncan Distortion: Ceramic 16.4k 44awg
De Martini: A2 16k

DSD: Large Ceramic, 13-14k, Brass, hex screws 43awg

59, 78, Gibson classic 57, DiM PAF etc - 8-9K 42awg

I thought the JB and SH5 were the same winding. Sorry for the confusion.

So it looks like the DSD and the Duncan Custom are the same. Had a Duncan Custom in the 80's but that was when I knew less than nothing. May have to revisit that guy. For early VH, I'm using a Mighty Mite 1300 right now, but go back and forth with the DSD. Really not much difference.

That would make sense since he used to work at MM making the MM 1300, which is a Super Distortion Clone. The SH5 is a slightly more refined sounding Super Distortion Clone. To my ears SH5 = VH2

I want to try an A5 in an SH5, and compare that to a Super Distortion with an A5. I have both Pickups. Magnets are $7.. Seems like a no brainer