would be kewl to try but from what i know its the MM i would choose for evh tone.Tone Slinger wrote:Shit, from being "Right There" at that brown sound (really close) maybe some OT experimentation would help. Eddie's OT was obviously not a MM. Have you tried the Dagnall clone.
12 series clip
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- rockstah
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What is your #1 set up "clip" so far??? I'm getting lost here....
Beaucoup of them!!
The 820ohm/100-110 variac VAC/shared...... is cool OR did I forgot one somewhere?

Beaucoup of them!!
The 820ohm/100-110 variac VAC/shared...... is cool OR did I forgot one somewhere?
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- rockstah
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in the quote is the latestrockstah wrote:500dcv tap
variac'd down to 109dcv= http://www.soundclick.com/bands/songInf ... ID=4681772
b+ 460
heaters at 6.2
bias drops from 30mA to 25mA
its here im thinking perhaps'back to split cathode.
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- rockstah
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no no no! its not a .68u on v2a for evh - that gets rid of the classic voice of eds tone - 330u gives you more of the "boinginess" if you know what i mean.Brentsp wrote:Mark your clips sound stupid good bro.....like "gives me goose bumps" good........especially the shared clips.![]()
You aught to try shared but with .68uf on V2. Thats how I have mine setup and its killer in my opinion.
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If you put a 330uf in paralell with Brents .68uf, you would have theoreticly 330.68uf correct? The 330s I've been getting vary about 15uf from spec out of the box, (usually around 315) so wouldnt' the .68 added to a 315uf make make no difference (315 to 315.68 is nothing), but the other way around would be huge (.68uf to 315.68uf). This way during switching there's allways a connection. Same mentality as with the tone stack switch where the switch adds cap and/or resistors in parralel.
So if you have an amp with a .68uf on v2 like Brents, try jumpering a 330uf across it with clips, and see if you like it. I would think it would sound just like a 330 cap by itself , even though there would be 2 caps.
But if you have a 330 in there, you should desolder the the positive side of the 330uf before adding the .68 to hear any difference.
Does that make sense to you?
So if you have an amp with a .68uf on v2 like Brents, try jumpering a 330uf across it with clips, and see if you like it. I would think it would sound just like a 330 cap by itself , even though there would be 2 caps.
But if you have a 330 in there, you should desolder the the positive side of the 330uf before adding the .68 to hear any difference.
Does that make sense to you?
Last edited by mightymike on Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
- rockstah
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i had it like that for longest time and then in a rebuild i moved it off and didnt miss it - plus its neater lookin with just the 330u there.mightymike wrote:If you put a 330uf in paralell with Brents .68uf, you would have theoreticly 330.68uf correct? The 330s I've been getting vary about 15uf from spec out of the box, (usually around 315) so wouldnt' the .68 added to a 330 cicuit make no difference, but the other way around wouyld be huge. So if you have an amp with a .68uf on v2, try jumpering a 330uf across it with clips, and see if you like it. I would think it would sound just like a 330 by itself , even though there would be 2 caps. Does that make sense to you?

- 5150loveeddie
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High mids boinginess, I like that!!!!!!! I call it spongy but boinginess it more accurate definitely better, yep
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- rockstah
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yes it does, perfect sense to me.mightymike wrote:If you put a 330uf in paralell with Brents .68uf, you would have theoreticly 330.68uf correct? The 330s I've been getting vary about 15uf from spec out of the box, (usually around 315) so wouldnt' the .68 added to a 315uf make make no difference (315 to 315.68 is nothing), but the other way around would be huge (.68uf to 315.68uf). This way during switching there's allways a connection. Same mentality as with the tone stack switch where the switch adds cap and/or resistors in parralel.
So if you have an amp with a .68uf on v2 like Brents, try jumpering a 330uf across it with clips, and see if you like it. I would think it would sound just like a 330 cap by itself , even though there would be 2 caps.
But if you have a 330 in there, you should desolder the the positive side of the 330uf before adding the .68 to hear any difference.
Does that make sense to you?

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finish my ****** build at this point - more later.rgalpin wrote:now what are you going to do? it sounds exactly like ed - yer at the top of the mountain dude - time to go to didney world!
are you going to mess with the V3 resistor values? all that stuff about even order harmonics sounds pretty interesting.

- 5150loveeddie
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Should be a little darker from the start if all the rest the same, a hair more musical/3de-ish.....
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- 5150loveeddie
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I'm very curious to see myseft as I never really tried the MM before except for my first build I sold few years ago with some!!!!rockstah wrote:we shall see very soon now.5150loveeddie wrote:Should be a little darker from the start if all the rest the same, a hair more musical/3de-ish......
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- 5150loveeddie
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That is a must do, the trimming pot is a great idea to really get the sweets out..........less painfull to tweak..rgalpin wrote:now what are you going to do? it sounds exactly like ed - yer at the top of the mountain dude - time to go to didney world!
are you going to mess with the V3 resistor values? all that stuff about even order harmonics sounds pretty interesting.
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