Review of Webber Chassis
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
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Review of Webber Chassis
Thought I would try out one of Webber's steel chassis for a potential new build, I ordered their 100 watt Marshall style w/six cans on top. It arrived and I have to say I am a little disappointed.
1. The ends are not welded leaving the chassis to flex.
2. The plating is just so, so, nothing special. Its a nickle finish but has some spotting that looks bad.
3. The imput jack holes do not fit the cliff style jacks--they fit the guitar style of imputs---this sucks---you have to drill them out larger.
4. The holes on the ends that connect to the head box are welded on and are an odd size, do not fit normal marshall bolts...WTF?
5. The plexi panels are shit, look horrible, you can see through them! If you glue them on then you will see that too. Total crap.
6. The front panel is not drilled to standard marshall specs. My metal face repo panel will not fit correct-----this same panel will fit Georges steel chassis just fine.
To say the least I was not happy. Georges 100 watt steel chassis with the gold, zinc chromate finish is much higher quality for only a few cents more....live and learn.
Allen
1. The ends are not welded leaving the chassis to flex.
2. The plating is just so, so, nothing special. Its a nickle finish but has some spotting that looks bad.
3. The imput jack holes do not fit the cliff style jacks--they fit the guitar style of imputs---this sucks---you have to drill them out larger.
4. The holes on the ends that connect to the head box are welded on and are an odd size, do not fit normal marshall bolts...WTF?
5. The plexi panels are shit, look horrible, you can see through them! If you glue them on then you will see that too. Total crap.
6. The front panel is not drilled to standard marshall specs. My metal face repo panel will not fit correct-----this same panel will fit Georges steel chassis just fine.
To say the least I was not happy. Georges 100 watt steel chassis with the gold, zinc chromate finish is much higher quality for only a few cents more....live and learn.
Allen
- Flames1950
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With Weber's very clear stance on not being a repro/clone source, you didn't expect this? I've got one of the Weber 100-watt kits on the bench right now; it ain't bad for the money, although it's no substitute for the extra money spent on George's extra quality.........the panels look fine when glued on with an aeresol adhesive in a very even coat (I wouldn't use any squeeze tube silicone for sure!!!)

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I recently finished a SLP around the Weber chassis and it wasn't too bad. A local guy wanted a Superbass but backed out of the deal halfway through the build. Can you say Ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... %3AIT&rd=1
What were you expecting for the finish - mirror quality chrome?
I hear ya on the hole situation. I used cliff jacks and had to open up the faceplates' holes.
Do yourself a huge favor - put the faceplate on the amp and secure it with some pots. Use a Dremel to gently carve away the plastic until it's flush with the metal chassis. The plastic used in Webers' faceplates is very brittle. If you jam a bit while drilling you'll crack the plastic. I did this on the rear faceplate and had to order a second piece. On a positive note, their delivery was immediate.
Unwelded seams really aren't that big of a deal. When would the chassis ever twist when it's bolted in a cabinet?
Those mounting nuts are good old regular AES/American/English standard threads. I think they're 10/24. Marshalls are metric. You'll appreciate this when you lose one and don't have to scour for a metric bolt.
All said, I think I prefer George's stuff too. I used Webers' chassis cause I got it cheap and locally from another Metro member.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... %3AIT&rd=1
What were you expecting for the finish - mirror quality chrome?
I hear ya on the hole situation. I used cliff jacks and had to open up the faceplates' holes.
Do yourself a huge favor - put the faceplate on the amp and secure it with some pots. Use a Dremel to gently carve away the plastic until it's flush with the metal chassis. The plastic used in Webers' faceplates is very brittle. If you jam a bit while drilling you'll crack the plastic. I did this on the rear faceplate and had to order a second piece. On a positive note, their delivery was immediate.
Unwelded seams really aren't that big of a deal. When would the chassis ever twist when it's bolted in a cabinet?
Those mounting nuts are good old regular AES/American/English standard threads. I think they're 10/24. Marshalls are metric. You'll appreciate this when you lose one and don't have to scour for a metric bolt.
All said, I think I prefer George's stuff too. I used Webers' chassis cause I got it cheap and locally from another Metro member.
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Thats what Ive been talking about about how to take advantage of the people out there who knwo theres home built amps out there that rival the high end booteek for less then half the price. He did it the right way. A great looking, qulaity build. Lots of pictures and direct descriptions of everything. There are people that know what a deal it is to buy a great amp like the one Chris built.
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I appreciate the compliments but I'm still disappointed that I didn't sell it locally. I would much rather see my amps being abused at local shows. Ebay was a last resort because of a wishy-washy friend-of-a-friend. Rest assured at $1200.00 I certainly didn't make enough to cover real labor costs. I think I'll keep my day job.